What?
Tàu hũ is one of Vietnam’s longest standing street-foods. Even before the French colonists invaded the country some 130 years ago, bringing with them bánh mì (bread), bánh flan (creme caramel) and a hoard of other now-popular foods, vendors could be found wandering the streets of Saigon serving up sugary, hot tofu.
Fast forward around 2 centuries and whilst the landscape of the city has changed beyond recognition, tofu sellers can still be found camped on roadsides or rambling the pavements in very much the same manner they did back then: their ingredients neatly stacked into handcrafted baskets and carried on their shoulders, their faces sheltered from the sun by nón lá hats.
It’s easy to see why this sweet treat has survived so many years. By god does tàu hũ taste good. Over the years this velvety, liquid dessert has evolved from just sugar syrup and tofu into a more complex blend of ingredients and flavours. Nowadays, it’s comprised of sugar syrup, coconut milk, ginger and, you guessed it, tofu.
First, scoops of hot, melty tofu are dolloped into a cup or glass.
Over the top, a hot, brown sugar syrup, cooked with ginger and pandan leaves, is poured. This is garnished with thin slices of ginger and a big ladleful of glutinous tapioca balls, both immersed in syrup.
Finally, coconut milk is generously spooned over the mixture.
**Cue mouthwatering**
The result is a rich, warming, delicate dessert; satisfyingly sugary yet not overpoweringly so, smooth in taste and texture but with a gentle contrast from the kick of the ginger and the chewy texture of the tapioca balls. This is a must-try for any sweet-toothed foodie.
Where?
169 Bùi Viện
You’re not going to find good, authentic street-food any closer to the city’s tourist centre. This small stand is constantly thriving with locals, expats and travellers, and for a reason. For as little as 8K VND you can enjoy a really delicious bowl of hot tofu right on Bùi Viện, Saigons infamously rowdy, backpacker-heavy walking street.
Open 4pm-10pm (or until sold out). 8K VND per bowl. 169 Bùi Viện, Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Hẻm 306, Xô Viết Nghệ Tĩnh
Along this narrow alleyway you’ll find 2 spots selling tàu hũ. The first occupies a shopfront, a rarity for tofu-sellers which normally operate from trolleys or baskets. The second, which I would recommend, is a small, easily missable cart run by a very friendly aunty. Don’t be fooled by the underwhelming appearance: the tofu here is delicious.
This stall is normally open mid-morning (closed for lunch) and mid-afternoon until sold out, though open times can be pretty variable. 10K VND per bowl. Hẻm 306 Xô Viết Nghệ Tĩnh, Phường 25, Bình Thạnh, Ho Chi Minh City
Tàu Hủ Nguyên
This cute, modern shop, situated in the hubbub of District 3, offers mild, elegantly flavoured bowls of handcrafted tàu hủ. The tofu here is less smooth than that available at the street stands, but with a more distinct flavour. Alongside the hot tofu (tàu hũ nóng) they also serve up a deliciously floral cold tofu (tàu hũ lạnh) made with rock sugar, jasmine syrup and aloe vera.
Open 7:30–10:30am, 3–10pm every day. 25K VND per bowl. 83 Nguyễn Phúc Nguyên, Phường 10, Quận 10, Hồ Chí Minh
Tàu Hủ Cóc
Nowadays, Saigon is sprawling with eateries serving up more contemporary iterations of táu hũ. Expect a variety of fruits, seeds, jellies and the like, piled liberally on top of many of the more traditional ingredients. For a ultra-modern bowl of tofu served with cendol jelly-worms (bánh lọt), basil seeds (hạt é) and Vietnamese creme caramel (bánh flan), head on over to Tàu Hủ Cóc in Phú Nhuận district. It’s a jumble of flavours and textures, a long way from the traditionally minimal form of the dessert, but an interesting example of the city’s present-day pudding offerings.
Open every day 3.30-10pm. 15-20K VND per bowl. 32 Hoa Sứ, Phường 7, Phú Nhuận, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
To view the locations, click in the top right of the map (to open) and search for ‘Tau Hu’.